Bring 1 gallon water and the wine, orange juice, 2 tablespoons of the lemon juice, the celery, onions, carrots, salt, peppercorns, thyme, parsley, smashed garlic, and bay leaves to a boil in a very large heavy pot over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Add the lobsters and cover. Poach until the lobster shells turn red, about 9 minutes.
Remove the lobsters from the water with tongs and drain in a colander. When cool enough to handle, remove the tail and claw meat from the shells, finely chop, and set aside; reserve the shells.
Strain the cooking liquid through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean pot. Add the lobster shells, bring to a boil, and cook until the liquid is reduced by half, about 30 minutes. Add the fennel fronds and upper stalks (youíll use the fennel bulb later) and boil until reduced to about 2 cups, about 1 hour.
Strain the liquid into a clean saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Whisk the cream, 2 tablespoons of the butter, the chervil, and 1 1/2 teaspoons of the lemon zest into the liquid and season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove the sauce from the heat and cover to keep warm.
Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the fennel bulb, shallots, and minced garlic and cook, stirring, until the fennel softens, about 3 minutes. Add the chopped lobster meat. Cook, stirring often, until the lobster is heated through, about 2 minutes. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons lemon juice, 2 tablespoons butter, and 1 1/2 teaspoons lemon zest and stir well. Pour onto a rimmed baking sheet or platter and let cool.
Lay out 18 of the wonton wrappers on a work surface. Spoon 1 tablespoon of the lobster filling into the center of each wrapper. One at a time, brush a little water on the edges of each filled wrapper and top with one of the remaining 18 wrappers. Press gently around the filling and the edges of the wrappers to seal. (The ravioli can be refrigerated for up to 2 hours at this point, covered tightly with plastic wrap.)
Gently reheat the sauce over low heat, stirring occasionally.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Drop the ravioli into the water, in batches, and cook until the ravioli are tender, about 30 seconds. Remove with a large skimmer or slotted spoon and drain well.
Place three ravioli on each of six serving plates. Spoon over the sauce and serve.
Yield: 6 servings