The Sun, the Moon & the Stars: Grace & Ken Evenstad; Kathleen & Francis RooneyA tuba tooted, horns hooted and drums drilled as Emeril Lagasse jazzed up the night at a vintner dinner fit for royalty.At the Evenstads’ Port Royal mansion, the world renowned chef cooked up a six-course meal Friday night in their kitchen, including a “surprise dish” — a risotto with lobster and black truffles, flown in from France.The Evenstads, the party hosts and vintners, scrambled a day earlier to find an earthy wine to go with the last-minute course, settling on the 2000 Evenstad Reserve.With the dinner only a few hours away, Emeril still was without raisins for one of his dishes. The hosts hustled to fill the order.Before the dinner, Emeril gave servers a detailed run-down on everything he planned to put on the table.”We’re cooking everything to order,” he said. “Just be patient.”Emeril’s delectable menu included baked oysters “three ways,” herb roasted yellow fin tuna loin with Asian pear-endive salad, and carved venison loin. And, of course, his famous spicy BBQ shrimp.For dessert? A drunken Espresso cake with bittersweet chocolate gelato and Syrah extraction.”It’s not really drunk,” said Alain Joseph, one of Emeril’s three chefs who helped with preparations. “It’s just a little tipsy.”The same probably can’t be said of the guests, who were expected to drink at least a half a dozen glasses of wine before the end of the night.Before the first course was served, Emeril broke out in song and danced as two New Orleans bands played “When the Saints Come Marching In.”He let out an “All Right,” as he clapped in time with the beat, a kitchen towel hanging on the apron at his waist.The bands led guests into the dining room, where tables were draped in chocolate and pink linens shipped from Chicago.It’s a repeat performance for Emeril, who last year cooked in the very same kitchen for the wine festival. He could be back again next year.The Evenstads’ wide open kitchen allowed guests to see Emeril’s every move.”Emeril said that he would come back to the festival this year, only if he could be at my house,” said Grace Evenstad, who owns the Domaine Serene winery in Oregon with husband, Ken, a successful pharmaceutical executive. “That is usually not done.”For Food Network king Emeril, exceptions are made. The best-selling author and chef-proprietor now owns nine restaurants: three in New Orleans, two in Las Vegas, two in Orlando, one in Atlanta and one in Miami. He expects to open his 10th restaurant in Mississippi this summer.The Evenstads served six wines, their own and one wine poured by the owners of the Antucura winery in Argentina.Kathleen and Francis Rooney, the U.S. ambassador to the Holy See in Rome, co-hosted the event. Last year, Francis Rooney, in his first year on the job, was too busy to make the festival. Not so this year.”The festival is important to so many people’s lives in this community,” he said. “It’s an amazing benefit.”He leaves for Rome today — but not before getting a taste of Naples.By Laura LaydenOriginally published — 6:01 p.m., January 26, 2007Updated — 12:00 a.m., January 27, 2007naplesnews.com© 2006 Naples Daily News and NDN Productions. Published in Naples, Florida, USA by the E.W. Scripps Co.