Las Vegas Review-Journal
September 19, 2008
by Heidi Knapp Rinella
So now we come to the Palazzo’s Table 10, the name an affectionate nod to the table in his first New Orleans restaurant where planning for the restaurant was done and where staff gathered once it was open. In so many ways, it’s quite different from the widely known Emeril tradition.
For one thing, the menu is sort of all over the place. In less skilled hands, that tends to spell trouble, as an indication that a restaurant has no idea what it is and what it’s trying to do. Table 10, however, comes across as a cruise through the best of the world’s cuisines.
Service throughout from our team of waiters was efficient and amiable, and we fairly reveled in the atmosphere of the place, with its arty swirling-mosaic-topped tables, stairway to heaven behind the bar and energizing (but not overly loud) rock music. It borrows from a lot of cultural motifs — such as the wrought iron-style swirls on the banquettes, evocative of Bourbon Street — that rise above the minimalist, the neutral and the kitschy that predominate these days and work together in harmony, just like the seemingly disparate elements on the menu.
When you know what you’re doing, being all over the place can be a good thing.