Emeril’s Delmonico 1300 St. Charles Ave., 525-4937
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Sunday, October 24, 2004
By Brett Anderson
In 1997, when he officially took over Delmonico, which first opened in 1895, Emeril was essentially trying to do what the Brennans did when they acquired Commander’s Palace (est. 1880) in 1974: preserve an important New Orleans restaurant by restoring the luster it once had. Delmonico is arguably the most grandiose of all New Orleans restaurants, a bi-level sanctuary of old world elegance and canonical dishes abetted by such modern amenities as heirloom beans, rib-eyes dry-aged on the premises, burrata mozzarella you can eat with a spoon, pork from pure-bred Berkshire pigs, well-traveled sommeliers. If this is really how things used to be, here’s hoping more restaurants today can become like they were back then.