We are finally starting to get some cool weather down here in New Orleans and sadly I think it may be time to cut down my basil plants. I planted Italian basil, lemon basil and cinnamon basil this year. I have not had much luck with basil before but this year the plants flourished. Really flourished sort of out of control, the lemon basil is about 5 feet tall, the only thing holding it up is the enormous okra plant. So I think I will go ahead and harvest my basil crop this weekend. Now I have the problem of preserving my crop. Honestly, I am not the biggest fan of pesto but I think that may be the best way to use such large quantities of basil. Perhaps a walnut pesto is in order, it is hearty and slightly more robust in flavor. I am going to substitute toasted walnuts for the pine nuts in the recipe below.

I am also thinking about making a lemon basil syrup to use for Gimlets. Now that I think of it, lemon basil syrup stored in a pretty bottle would probably make a nice hostess gift.

Cinnamon basil works well in desserts. I am planning to poach pears for Thanksgiving and I think I will add a little cinnamon basil to the poaching liquid. Cinnamon basil has both an anise flavor as well as a cinnamon flavor, both of which pair well with poached pears.

Three ways to use basil:

Basil syrup:

1 cup granulated sugar
3/4 cup water
1/2 cup chopped fresh basil leaves** lemon, cinnamon or even Thai basil may be used

In a 1-quart saucepan, combine the sugar and water. Put it over medium heat and stir to help the sugar dissolve. Once the sugar has dissolved and the syrup is hot, take it off the heat and add the chopped basil. Allow the syrup to cool for 15 minutes, strain it through a fine mesh sieve, and discard the basil. The syrup may be made up to 2 weeks in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container until ready to use.

Freeze it:

The best way to freeze basil is to carefully remove the leaves and then pack them into a ziplock bag. As long as the leaves are not bruised they will not discolor. When you are ready to use your basil, just open the bag, crack off as much as you need and then reseal the bag.

Pesto:

Basil Pesto
Recipe courtesy Emeril Lagasse, courtesy Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia, Inc.

Yield: 2 cups

Ingredients:
4 cups fresh basil leaves
2/3 cup lightly toasted pine nuts
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 plus 1/8 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Method:
In a food processor, pulse to chop the basil, pine nuts, Parmesan and garlic. With the processor running, drizzle in the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Remove and store in an airtight non-reactive container. Press top with plastic wrap to prevent turning brown and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days

It seems as though there is a citrus tree in every garden in New Orleans. I have planted a veritable orchard in my garden, everything from satsumas and tangerines to Meyer lemons and Key limes. My trees are still small but still produce a decent harvest. But walking around the city I have noticed some of the older citrus trees are heavy with fruit; laden with enormous grapefruits, satsumas and my favorite of them all Meyer lemons.

Strolling through my neighborhood one recent afternoon there were some kids with a stand set up. Rather than a lemonade stand they were just giving away Meyer lemons to anyone walking by. Of course, I felt obliged to take a few off their hands.

Meyer lemons are a cross between a lemon and a sweet orange and are natives of China, originally grown as ornamentals. I think they are primarily ornamentals in the New Orleans garden as well. They grow vigorously in temperate climates and can become up to twelve feet tall, but can be pruned back to remain a reasonable height in a small garden. The fruit is more round than a true lemon and the flesh has a slight orange tinge. Meyer lemons tend to be more sweet than sour and have a slight orange aroma, they are also packed with juice.

You can substitute Meyer lemons for regular lemons in just about any recipe. To me they have a more pronounced lemon flavor without being as acidic. I have big plans for the Meyer lemon this year. First I plan to make homemade Lemoncello for Christmas gifts for my family and friends. We made Orangecello in the test kitchen this summer and it was so amazingly easy I thought it would be fun to make for the holidays. In a few weeks I am co-hosting a bridal shower and am responsible for dessert so I think my contribution will be Meyer lemon tartlets. Lemon curd is so versatile; you can make tarts, serve it with scones or biscuits for breakfast or use it as a filling for cakes. It holds up well in the refrigerator as well, up to two weeks. I also think I may make lemon ice for Thanksgiving. Yes, I know that sounds odd but after a big meal I personally like to have a light and refreshing dessert.

Hopefully, my little trees will provide me with enough lemons for all of my endeavors but if not I will just stroll around New Orleans looking for trees bulging with fruit and hope the owner is willing to share.

I was recently asked the difference between regular oregano and Mexican oregano, so I decided to do a little investigating. I happen to love oregano, I have several varieties growing in my garden. I often use Mexican oregano but just figured it was a cousin of Mediterranean oregano.

Mediterranean oregano is a commonly used herb in Greek, Italian and Spanish cuisine. It grows wildly in the crags and hilly mountain sides throughout southern Europe. It has a strong, bold flavor that borders on bitter. If you have ever tasted the raw herb on its own you know that it is powerful because it can make your tongue feel numb. We are pretty familiar with oregano whether we know it or not. It is an essential herb in pasta and pizza sauces. It pairs perfectly with garlic and is often used in marinades and salad dressings. I like to use it with lemon and olive oil and a little crushed red pepper to make a simple marinade for grilled shrimp. Dried oregano is generally Greek oregano but there is also Turkish oregano and Italian oregano. The Italian variety often includes the flower buds which are slightly sweeter and more mild than the Turkish and Greek varieties. So what is the deal with Mexican oregano. Well as it turns out it is not even the same plant.

Mexican oregano is more closely related to Lemon Verbena. It has a similar flavor to oregano but it is slightly stronger with more spicy notes than sweet notes. It does have a slight citrus note as well. It is a fundamental herb in the Southwestern, Mexican and Central American pantry and is commonly used to flavor pozole, beans, chilies and stews. It pairs well with cumin and coriander. Season enchilada sauce, mole and Texas chilies with this herb to add brightness and flavor.

Mexican oregano can be found in Latin American grocery stores or in the Latin American section of your local market. There are also several reputable sources on line.

www.ranchogordo.com

www.SpiceHouse.com

www.Penzeys.com

Halloween is huge in New Orleans and why not. This city just loves a good costume party. And of course we can’t have a party without food. There is a big block party in my neighborhood which generally means guests milling in and out all night. So I want to cook something that does not require much last minute work and that will hold well. It might actually be cool here so I would also like something to warm up my guests when they come in from the cold.

I also have a plethora of limes. I have a key lime tree in my yard that is over loaded with limes- I mean hundreds of them. I cannot use them fast enough. Seems to me a big batch of Margaritas or Mojitos are definitely in order as well.

I will probably whip up a batch of jalapeño corn bread too.

This pozole recipe is delicious and you do not have to worry about soaking the hominy. You can check out some of Emeril’s other pozole recipes on our website or on The Food Network. Read more »

Yesterday Chef Chris Wilson was in Jackson, Mississippi for the Viking Classic Golf Tournament. He was among many chefs from all over the South asked to participate in this event. Chef Chris prepared a classic Southern dish “Shrimp and Grits” as such, I thought it would be interesting to find out a little history behind this dish and this is what I discovered.

HISTORY OF SHRIMP AND GRITS

• Shrimp and Grits originated in South Carolina, particularly Charleston
• It is thought the settlers of South Carolina were introduced to a version of grits by the Native Americans.
• This simple dish was eaten by local fisherman for breakfast and was often referred to as “Breakfast Shrimp”
• Shrimp and Grits were traditionally made with river shrimp and old fashioned stone ground grits fresh from the mill flavored simply with just a little bacon fat.
• Most communities in South Carolina had a grist mill where hominy was ground. Grits have become an iconic symbol of Southern food and stone ground grits are a must for this dish.
• In 1985, Craig Claiborne published an article about this dish in the New York Times turning this simple recipe into a Southern icon. Chefs across the South began creating their own upscale versions. Soon Shrimp and Grits began to appear on dinner menus in the South’s most celebrated restaurants.
• Today, rather than flavoring the grits humbly with bacon fat, they are flavored with cream, butter, spices and good shrimp stock and have been embellished with spicy andouille sausage, hot sauces, and green onions. Every chef seems to have their own version. There is even a festival dedicated in its honor celebrating every possible rendition of the now hugely popular dish.

It has been quite a while since my last post. The culinary team has had a crazy year here at Homebase and this is the first real break we have had. So I will give you the low down on what we have been doing. First of all I am happy to say that Emeril’s 20-40-60 book hit the shelves this week. This is such a great book geared to those of us who love food but don’t always have time to spend the whole day in the kitchen. We have also spent this year working on Emeril Green, Chef Emeril’s show on Planet Green. This show ties in closely with Emeril’s third book Farm to Fork. Both of these projects have been close to my heart bringing together my dedication to ecological issues as well as my passion for fresh, local and sustainable cuisine. Farm to Fork will be out next March!

I am looking forward to writing about the farmer’s markets in and around New Orleans as well as my own little garden. As well as providing a little insight as far as what goes on in our test kitchen in New Orleans.

What is Mayhaw you ask? Mayhaw is a fruit that comes from the May Hawthorn tree, found in swamps and low-lying, generally, wet areas of the Southeastern United States. The May Hawthorne begins to ripen in late February and early March; the blossoms are quite pretty and remind me of cherry blossoms. The fruit, which looks something like a cross between a crab apple and a rosehip, ripens in late April and May.

Wild Mayhaw fruit is harvested using boats or what we call pirogues; the limbs of the trees are shaken and the fruit is then gathered in nets. Mayhaw has been harvested for generations by those lucky enough to have the sweet fruit nearby. But the wild trees have dwindled due to development.

Mayhaw has a slightly tannic quality to it. It’s flavor reminds me of rose hips or quince, which makes sense since the May Hawthorne tree is a cousin of the rose. The fruit is processed and made into jams, jellies, syrups, pie fillings, sorbet and even Mayhaw wine. Mayhaw is unique and distinct to this region of the South. It is something I grew up eating on toast for breakfast when I would visit my great aunts in Tensas parish. It brings back fond memories and every year I look forward to May. Mayhaw products are often sold at farmstands along the side of the road in areas where the trees grow. There are a few farmers who sell their products online.

The town of Marion, Louisiana hosts its annual Mayhaw Festival this Mother’s Day weekend on May 10. There will be games, food and of course a Mayhaw jelly making contest.

Easter Sunday is just a few days away. Easter is not only a celebration of the resurrection of Jesus but also a celebration of spring. The most common symbol associated with Easter is the Easter egg. It is thought the Easter egg was originally a pagan symbol associated with fertility and new life and therefore with spring, a time of rebirth and renewal. Eggs may also be symbolic because they were forbidden during lent and therefore celebrated on Easter Sunday. Read more »

The Irish Channel located in Uptown New Orleans was a mostly working class neighborhood originally settled by Irish immigrants in the early 19th century. Irish peasants fleeing the Potato Famine disembarked at the port in New Orleans. Most of the immigrants had little or no money and could not afford to explore the city, so they just settled at their point of disembarkation. They could easily find jobs working in the industries along the river, such as the port, slaughterhouses, cotton presses and sugar refineries. The Irish built simple cottages, now referred to as “shotguns”, along the river and its surrounding area. As they settled in, they opened markets, saloons and bars, some of which still exist today, including Parasol’s the starting point for the annual St. Patrick’s Day Parade.

Mardi Gras has come to an end but that doesn’t mean things are winding down here in New Orleans, no way. The month of March has many festivals and celebrations to get geared up for. The O’Brian’s, McDaniels and O’Neils along with the rest of us are preparing for the next big holiday, St. Patrick’s Day. We will use any excuse here to have a parade or throw an enormous block party and St. Patrick’s Day is one of our favorite days, so much so we usually celebrate it for several days. Parasol’s Irish Bar located in the Irish Channel is host to the Annual St. Patrick’s Day Block Party, green beer and Guiness flows liberally. Tuxedoed men in marching parades hand out green flowers to women in hopes of getting a kiss.

Mardi Gras-like floats themed for St. Patrick’s Day with leprechauns and pots of gold, lumber down Magazine Street. From a distance it is an odd site to see. You squint just to be sure and then as the float comes closer you realize that they are in fact tossing cabbages, carrots, onions and potatoes along with the traditional beads, doubloons and green paper flowers. That’s right ladies and gentlemen you might just catch a flying cabbage.

If you are having your own St. Patrick’s Day party try a few of these Irish recipes:

IRISH SODA BREAD
POTATO SOUP WITH SMOKED SALMON RELISH
BRAISED CABBAGE WITH CORN BEEF HASH
SHEPHERD’S PIE WITH GARLIC MASHED POTATOES
EMERIL’S ALE
BALLYMALOE IRISH STEW
APPLE OATMEAL CRISP WITH IRISH WHISKEY CREAM

Shamrocks or clovers are a symbol of Ireland and a common motif used for anything Irish especially, St. Patricks Day. The clover is used informally as the badge of Ireland. It is also believed that St. Patrick used the clover in his missionary work to teach the Holy Trinity; the Father, the Son and the Holy Ghost.

In Irish mythology, Leprechauns are a type of male fairy who take the form of a diminutive old man. They are thought to be mischievous and cunning and enjoy their wealth, storing their treasure crocks of gold. Legeng holds that if you can keep a leprechaun captive you can keep his crock of gold. However, if you do not keep your eye on a leprechaun, he’ll disappear.

Shades of green are customarily worn on St. Patrick’s Day in the United States and Ireland. The shades of green represent the “Emerald Isle” for its lush, emerald colored vegetation. Green is the national color of Ireland and on St. Patrick’s Day cities with large Irish populations like Chicago have been known to go to great lengths to dye the streets and even the Chicago River green.