October 25, 2009
By Brett Anderson
Emeril’s Delmonico was conceived with a tightly focused mission: To restore a historic restaurant using contemporary standards of service and cuisine that honors its glory days.
This is the most confident cooking I’ve ever found in a Lagasse restaurant. The menu may be all over the place — small plates, medium plates, full plates, classic plates, steaks, charcuterie galore — but once the food starts arriving, you realize it’s merely evidence of an impressive kitchen’s range.