Last night, I stopped in at Emeril’s on Tchoupitoulas for a quick bite. David Slater, the Executive Sous Chef, quickly sent me to the bar. A few minutes later, a dish he’s been testing out followed.

It was a small, appetizer-sized portion of San Marzano tomato braised baby octopus, handmade trofie pasta which is similar to a handmade corkscrew shaped pasta, garnished with a few pieces of torn basil leaves and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. The dish reminded me of a very kicked-up version of spaghetti Bolognese.

Its components were very simple—the tomatoes were seasoned with thin slices of whole garlic clove and Cashmere chili, a dry spice that is procured from Cashmere via a New York City spice market. The chili gave the dish the perfect amount of smoky, earthy depth to stand against the salty, sea-flavored octopus, which had been cooked perfectly. The octopus, which can be quite easily overcooked, was not in this case; it was very tender, with just the right amount of springy give, similar to nicely fried calamari. The pasta, shaped like tiny corkscrews, was cooked al dente, and shaped well enough to pick up some of the juices from the tomatoes. And with the bright, green flavors of the basil and olive oil to offset the larger flavors in the dish, the dish was seamlessly brought together.

I don’t know if this dish is making its way to the menu, but at the very least, I am hoping it will be a special that is available soon.

Filed Under: Food Talk