By Chef Patrick Mould

I arrived at my destination in the dead of the night unaware of my surroundings. The next day as I drove the narrow streets of the town, the mission-style adobe architecture immediately caught my eye.

Traveling down the narrow streets I imagined that I could be in some sleepy Mexican border town on the verge of busting out into a full-blown city. Instead, my voyage has brought me to the center of the art world and the state capitol of the great state of New Mexico.

It was my first visit to Santa Fe and I was on a culinary mission of love.

The plan was put in motion a few months earlier when fine-art photographer and love of my life, Debbie Fleming Caffery, ask me to cook for her birthday at her new digs in Santa Fe. Debbie had moved here just over a year ago and was excited about the possibility of introducing her new friends to Cajun cooking and her man.

After the party guest list grew to a few dozen it was decided by Janeal Arison wife of acclaimed flutist, Herbie Mann, and Debbie’s landlord that the party would be held at their home. Their place was larger and the kitchen more accommodating. Debbie never was one for cooking; she would much rather view the world through the lens of her camera than from behind a stove. Unfortunately the Mann’s would be out of town, which gave me another excuse to cart another ice chest of food half way across the country in order to cook in an unfamiliar kitchen for people who love Louisiana cooking!

Without sounding braggadocios, the party went off without a hitch and the attendees were pleasantly surprised with the variety and tastiness of the food. Smoked Duck and Andouille Gumbo; Pear, Gorgonzola, Sweet & Spicy Pecan Salad with Cane Syrup Herb Vinaigrette; Grilled Chaurice Sausage; Shrimp Mirliton; Corn Maque Choux; Marinated Grilled Catfish; and Southern Pecan Pie to name but a few of the dishes. The food was devoured as quickly as I could prepare it. It’s a compliment we chefs live for. It never ceases to amaze me the glee with which people take to Louisiana cuisine.

As quickly as the party began, it was over. Which meant one thing—my vacation had begun! It had been quite a while since I had taken a vacation so long! In fact I had to think twice about when and where the last one took place.

The following excerpts are some of the highlights of that vacation.

Center of the Art World- As mentioned earlier, Santa Fe is considered to be one of the centers of the art world and for good reason. There are literally hundreds of galleries featuring every form of visual art. The Photo Eye Gallery features the fine art photography of one of my favorite photographers, Debbie Fleming Caffery. (Long before we became an item, I was a fan of Debbie’s work.) Shooting in black and white, Debbie has a way of exposing the soul of a subject that puts her in a league with other masters of this art form. Debbie currently teaches photo workshops for Santa Fe Workshops.

I was amazed to find a number of other Louisiana artists showing their work in Santa Fe. The works of two of my favorite Louisiana sculptors Russell Whiting and John Geldersma can be found at Santa Fe galleries. Whiting’s work can be viewed at the Guadalupe Fine Arts, located just off Canyon Road in the heart of the art district, while pieces by Geldersma are shown at Lew Allen Gallery downtown.

Ten Thousand Waves -The first feeling that hits you upon entering this replica of a Japanese spa is serenity. The waterfall at the doorway, the Japanese koi fish swimming in a pond and the solemn way in which you are greeted by the host behind the check-in counter. I was unaware at the moment that the next couple of hours would be the most relaxing and peaceful I would spend in my life.

I must admit I didn’t know what to expect from my visit I had never visited a spa before. However, I can tell you one thing it won’t be my last. Upon checking in we were directed to the light snacks available and issued kimonos to wear during our stay. It was quite liberating walking around in plain view in only a kimono. While Debbie got a facial, I paid a visit the communal hot tub. This is a ten-foot teak hot tub with a cold plunge and a wet/dry sauna for men and women. While the outdoor temperature was around 48 degrees the temperature in the tub hovered at a comfortable 102 degrees. If you’re on the bashful side bathing, suits can be rented for a buck-fifty. Private outdoor tub areas, Imperial Ofuro, Waterfall and Ichiban offer spectacular views of the mountainside and the Pinon trees that dot the landscape.

Next up was a massage. Massage therapist at Ten Thousand Waves are trained in all the subtleties of a great massage: draping, communication, face cradles, balancing of the body, and in how to gently send you back to the world.
You could have knocked me over with a feather after my massage.

St. Francis of Assisi Cathedral- The City of Santa Fe was founded in 1610 and later in that same year the first Cathedral Church of St. Francis of Assisi was erected just off the town square and named after the patron saint of Santa Fe, San Francisco de Assisi. The church was destroyed by fire during the Indian Revolt of 1680 and re-built to ornate splendor in 1714. The only original portion left standing after the fire was the Chapel of Our Lady, La Conquistadora. In this small chapel just off the main room of the church, Jesus Christ on the cross hangs from a wall. Hispanic depictions of Jesus on the cross always seem to have more of an edge to them. On a wooden placard just under the cross is the phrase “Love Each Other Constantly”. It’s a place where you can’t help but light a candle and say a prayer. We attended Sunday mass presided over by Father Jerome Martinez, who celebrated his 25th anniversary as a priest last month. He gave a beautiful sermon and encouraged any tourist who might be visiting the church to join in the service. He also asked that no one leave prior to the sermon being completed. You have been warned.

El Santuario de Chimayo- As I turned off the main highway and onto the dirt road that led to the village, I turned to Debbie and asked, “Did we cross the border into Mexico and I didn’t notice?”

El Santuario de Chimayo is a plain unassuming structure located in the Sangre de Cristo mountains in the village of Chimayo 40 minutes outside of Santa Fe and is a must-see for anyone regardless of what faith you practice.

El Santuario (The Shrine) was built between 1814 and 1816 and privately owned until 1929 when several people purchased the church and turned it over to the Archdiocese of Santa Fe.

The church referred to, as the “Lourdes of America,” is a place where the power of prayer can be felt. An estimated 300,000 visitors a year make the pilgrimage to the sanctuary—40,000 to 50,000 alone during Holy Week leading up to Easter Sundy. They come to pray for a loved one who has been afflicted or in need of assistance, to fulfill a promise or to pray for their own peace. A small room located to the left of the ornate altar is filled with objects left by visitors. Statues of the Blessed Virgin, pictures of a departed loved one, crutches, a poem, all adorn the room. In another room visitors are digging dirt believed to posses spiritual powers. After a few minutes with them, I fall to my knees and dig along.

The Works of Marco A. Oviedo- Debbie and I continued our drive north of Chimayo to visit the husband-wife dynamic duo of Marco and Patricia Oviedo. He is a sculptor, wood carver, painter and poet. She is an 8th generation rancher of these Northern New Mexico foothills. Marco’s family, originally from the village of Asturias, located in the northwest Province of Spain have earned the reputation of being some of the finest wood carvers in the world.

However its Marco’s bronze pieces for which he regarded. His intricate objects of art, which can take up to 8 weeks to complete, along with woodcarvings and paintings are on display at the gallery located on their ranch complex. It is also home to his equine reproduction facility. He has a PHD in Animal Science and specializes in equine reproduction. Pat also has an artistic side also; her family is known for their weaving abilities, but her true talent is running the ranch which specializes in Mammoth Saddle Donkeys. I followed her on her afternoon feeding rounds, and to say I was winded like a mule that had been rode hard and put up wet would be an understatement. Pat’s business card pretty much sums up her role in the partnership.

Centinela Ranch Assette$
Patricia A. Trujillo
“Jenny of All Trades”

Trades include:
Consultant: Horse, Mule and Donkey Trader: Sheep Wrestler: Cow Liberator; Cat Broker; Manure Mover; equine Breeder; Repro Lab Manager; Gallery Operator; Santo Painter; Trail Ride Guide; Horse Boarder; Apple Grower; Guest Inn Owner; and Social Directorto name but a few

Route 1 Box 23a
Centinela Ranch
Chimayo, New Mexico 87522
Telephone 505-351-2280

As I mentioned earlier my intention in traveling to New Mexico was to cook for Debbie’s birthday and have a well-deserved vacation. Normally upon arriving at any new or old destination I would immediately be checking out the restaurant scene but not this time. However, man does not live by bread or on love alone so I am including some of the more interesting culinary stops on my vacation.

Leona’s Restaurante de Chimayo- Leona Medina-Tiede got her first taste of foodservice as a child working with her mother selling tortillas and posole to the many pilgrims who make the trek to El Santuario de Chimayo. Years later, Leona converted a storage shed at her childhood home into a take-out restaurant located next door to the sanctuary. This family-run restaurant is the home of some of the best authentic Northern New Mexican cuisine I tasted on my trip. Green chile stew, chicharrones (fried pork skins), biscochitos and Mexican bread pudding, are just a few dishes you will find on the menu. However, it is Leona’s tortillas that have gained her a reputation. When the commercial tortillas she purchased for use in the restaurant became inconsistent, she decided to start producing them herself. She mass-produces high quality tortillas available for sell throughout the United States. Red Chile, jalapeno, garlic, pesto, apple-cinnamon and blueberry are but a few of the varieties available. Her tamales have also gained quite a reputation and deservedly so. I tasted the pork, vegetarian, beef and chicken varieties on this trip and was quite impressed. So much so, that when I make the trip back to Santa Fe one of the first places I will go will be Leona’s.

Tados Santos- Transplanted New Orleans native Hayward Simoneaux arrived in Santa Fe 5 years ago to work at his sister’s Providence Heffron’s Canyon Road gallery, Mola. But his passion for collecting candy molds soon turned into an avocation. Each Christmas Hayward would create candy gifts for friends and family from the antique molds he collected. Soon people began inquiring how they could purchase his confections year round. Thus, the retail confectionery shop Tados Santo was born. Two years into the deal, national magazine, Chocolatier March issue has named Hayward Simoneaux one of the Top 10 Artisan Chocolatiers in the country. And for good reason his sculpted chocolate candies are not only tasty but are also edible art pieces—as pleasing to eye as they are to the palette. His infatuation for all things Mexican also plays a role thus the name Tados Santo, when translated means “All Saints,” a reference to “All Saints and All Souls Day,” known as the “Day of the Dead” in Mexico. Fish-shaped pi√èatas, silver-leafed chocolate heart-shaped Milagros, and gold-leafed chocolate sculptors of the Virgin Mary can be found alongside Mexican sugar molds, Japanese confections and award winning chocolates from other American makers.

Tecolote Cafe- This caf√© is one of those eating establishments, which attracts both tourist and locales alike, where the topic of conversation is usually a debate centered on whether you should top your Huevos Rancheros with red or green chile. I voted for green. Their excellent breakfast is a great value and there’s not a long line to get in.

Coyote Caf√©- No trip to Santa Fe would be complete without visiting the restaurant that many chefs, including myself, believe is one of the pioneers of regional cooking in America. It was voted Santa Fe’s most popular restaurant by the 1999 Zagat Survey and for good reason. Mark Miller’s Coyote Caf√© creates innovative cuisine based on Mexican and Northern New Mexican ingredients. My friend William Rice with the Chicago Tribune sums it up best, “Mark Miller, anthropologist-turned-chef-turned-entrepreneur, is a natural educator with a scholar’s passion for detail. Miller, with half-dozen or so fellow chefs, pretty much invented what has become known as new or contemporary southwestern cuisine.”

Santa Fe is a wonderful place to spend time and there are many other activities to take in, museums, snow skiing, hiking, as well as the opera in the summer. It’s also an amazing place to go when you’re on a culinary mission of love.

Debbie Fleming Caffery
1296 Lejano Lane
Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501
505-989-1473
www.debbieflemingcaffery.com

Herbie Mann
www.herbiemannmusic.com

Santa Fe Workshops
PO Box 9916
Santa Fe, NM 8750
Tel: (505) 983-1400 ? Fax: (505) 989-8604
www.santafeworkshops.com

Photo eye gallery
376 Garcia St.
Santa Fe, New Mexico
505-988-5152
www.photoeye.com

Guadalupe Fine Art, Inc
403 Canyon Road
Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501
505-982-2403
www.guadalupefa.net

Russell Whitting Show
May 4th - 26th
Opening Reception May 4th 5 pm to 7 pm
LewAllen Contemporary
129 W. Palace Ave.
Santa Fe, NM 87501
(505) 988-8997
www.lewallenart.com

John Geldersma Show
May 4th - 26th
Opening reception May 4th 5 pm -7 pm
Ten Thousand Waves Japanese Spa
3451 Hyde Park Road
Santa Fe NM 87501
505-992-5025
www.tenthousandwaves.com

The Cathedral Church of St. Francis of Assisi
131 Cathedral Place
Santa Fe, New Mexico 87504

El Santuario de Chimayo
P.O. Box 235
Chimayo, New Mexico 87522
505-351-4889

Ovideo Carvings & Bronze Sculptors
HCR 64 Box 23A
Chimayo, New Mexico 87522
505-351-2280
ptoviedo@roadrunner.com

Leona’s Restaurante de Chimayo
P.O. Box 280
Chimayo, New Mexico 87522
505-351-4569
www.leonasrestaurante.com

Tados Santos
125 East Palace Ave #31
Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501
505-982-3855

Tecolote Café
1203 Cerrillos Road
Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501
505-988-1362

Coyote Café
132 W. Water Street
Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501
505-983-1615
www.coyotecafeatmgm.com

Filed Under: Food Talk