By Lorin Gaudin

As Hanukkah approaches I get enthusiastic about the first night celebration. Each year I try to do something a bit different. It could be latkes (potato pancakes) with a twist (yucca in place of potatoes), or a complete meal from a different tradition.

In my family, we go all out for the first night. Friends are invited over for an elaborate meal, games, presents and fun. This year we are doing a world Hanukkah with recipes from Italy, France, North Africa and Eastern Europe. For this first night feast we will bring the world together through food for an evening of celebration and light.

Hanukkah commemorates the cleansing and rededication of the temple in Jerusalem, when the triumphant Maccabees returned and found only enough oil to last for one night. Miraculously, the single day’s supply lasted eight days. Hence the importance of oil and the traditional fried foods honoring and remembering the ancient miracle.

For most Americans, Hanukkah fare is typified by potato latkes and other foods of the Ashkenazi (Eastern European) Jews. Their numbers outstrip the smaller population of Sephardic Jews who were expelled from the Iberian Peninsula in 1492 by Ferdinand and Isabella. During the Inquisition, the Sephardim sought refuge within the Ottoman Empire scattering and settling in North Africa, the Middle East, and Latin America.

It is evident that the broad range of Jewish holiday specialties is relative to geography. In both Ashkenazi and Sephardic cultures, the emphasis on sweets is notable: Israel has their sufganiyot (jelly doughnuts), the Greek prepare loukomades and the Persian, zelebi. All of these use honey or a dusting of sugar.

Other culinary customs and distinctions were likely drawn from surrounding peoples.

Climate has also been a factor in both the migration of Sephardic families and the shaping of the dishes. The early Sephardim were sun-lovers, children of warmer climes; they came from areas where growing seasons were long and produce abundant, and tropical fruits, nuts, grains, and spices common. The use of oil, and in particular olive oil, rather than the chicken fat (schmaltz) of the Askenazim, is customary.

In North Africa, couscous with dried dates and apricots is a common side dish. The sixth night of Hanukkah in Morocco is also Rosh Hodesh (the New Moon). Moroccan Jews feast on a special meal followed by several sweets. In Tunis, daughters and wives are given sweet gifts like halvah or almendrada (kinds of marzipan).

In my family we have a blend of people from Ashkenazi and Sephardic traditions. To honor that, I built a menu from French, Italian, Middle Eastern recipes updated and adapted from Bon Appetit issues1991 and 1997. The latkes are of Eastern European tradition and the recipe of my own Aunt Marsha. Everyone says that there are the best, and these really are. The secret is frying them in a mix of Crisco vegetable shortening and schmaltz. If you can’t or won’t use schmaltz, they’re still the better than most.

Aunt Marsha’s Potato Latkes

Roast Veal Brisket with Marsala-Mushroom Sauce

Carrot Pancakes

Roasted Eggplant and Pepper Salad with Pita Bread and Sesame Spread

Sufganiyot

Filed Under: Food Talk